Shoe sewing machine



Oct. 26, 1943. E. QUINN 2,332,599

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed March 12, 1941 .g*tmE ;;..swe

Patented Oct. 26, 1943 .The present invention relates to. shoe sewing machines,.,and' more particularlylto inachines' adapted for sewing the upper shoe unsupported on a last.

The invention is hereindisclosed as embodied x to .the sole of a in a straight needleoverarm sewing'machine of the general'type having. stitch forming devices which include a work piercing awl, and a straight needle movable to feed the work, and devices ar- 1 ranged for guiding and forv supporting the work in position to cause the needleto enter and .to emerge from the same side of the work, which include a work' support adapted to enter the stitch receiving channel formed the sole, a

presser foot to bear against the upper against the edge of the sole anlupper guardiandprefer-f ably a horn arranged to extend within'the shoe and bearagainst theinner surface of the sole at the sewing point. l

The illustrated machine is similar. irimany respects to that illustrated in'the patent to Quinn et al., No. 2,198,391, datjedApril 23, ,19 40,,and is similarly adapted for operation upon turn shoes or slippers. in which theupper has been ,temporarily attached to thesole for inserting arow" of stitches through the upper and between-u substance between a shoulder adjacent thesole edgeand a stitch'receivingchannelfformed on the same side of the work; i

It is the object of the presentinvention to ii'n-' prove the constructionahd arrangement of the devices for supporting and for positioning the work to permit greater latitudein the'us'e or the.

machine fonsewing. uponsho'es or slippers 0011-, structed from thin"v or fragile materials. and to permit of the most advantageous location of the several positioningand actuating devices inac-a cordance with the requirements of) the workgbe e. ing operatedupon I With this; andotherjobjects in ,viewasmay hereinafter appear, certain features of the invention relate to the provision offan improved construction and mode of operation ofthe mechanism for actuating and for positioning the upper Another feature of the invention consists in the provision in a machine of the general type described, of a novel and improved work support better adapted forsupperting the work against the thrust'of the awl, particularly where it is attempted to sew shoes or slippers composed of extremely thin oriiagile materials.

i The several features of the invention consist also in the combination, devices and arrangement; of parts hereinafter described and claimed, which together with" the advantages to be obtained thereby will be readily understood byone skilled.

in the art from the following description taken, in connection with the accompanying drawing,

inwhich Fig. 1 is a partial view in left side elevation 'of a straight-{needle sewing machine erne bodying in a preferred form'thesever al features of applicanfisinvention, onlyso much ofthe ma-i. chine. being illustrated as is believed necessary to, illustrate the connection of the presentinvention therewith; Fig. 2 is an enlarged. detailyiew partly; in section and with thepresser .foot andaportions. of the supporting structure broken away to illustrate particularly the upper guard and its actuat-- ingpositioning meansg. Fig. 3v isaview in rear elevationtaken onthe line 3-3 of Fig. 2;. Figs is a detail Viewin front elevation illustrating. parti cularly a modified formof-work-support adapted for use on certain typ s of work; .Fig. 5 is a plan view taken on. theline 5--5 ,of Fig. 4, illustrating particularly. applicants .improved work support and Fig. 6 is a sectionalview taken on the line 6-6 of Fig. 4,. illustrating specificallythe split presser foot... 1, 'Ihemachine disclosed in the drawing-as eme bodying in a preferred form the severalfeatures ofthe present invention, is a wax thread chain.- stitch machine of the overarm type having a work support comprising two relatively movable channel engaging members .lfl'and lZ-(see Figs. 1.to3

-inclusive). and a straight hook needle l Llocated beneaththe work, and a cooperating presserfoot 5W1 8 and looperZG supported .by the'over} arm gen muy indicated at 22 above the work. In accordance with the usual construction of these machines the needle is mounted on a sWi nglil js ppbrti ifor movement in the line of 'feedto' ticularly constructed and arranged for, sewing a line of stitches around the margin of a turn shoe or'slipper which is preferably assembled in a re verse position with the upper and lining attached thereto, cemented or otherwise temporarily sec curedto ashoulderjformed inthe edge portion of the sole. The shoe or slipper is placed in the machine with the sole. in a sharply inclined p s tion, so that the needle at its work piercing stroke will enter the stitch receivin channel in theshoe sole, and passing through the between-substance.

will emerge through the upper and lining a groove formed by the shouldered edge of the shoe sole. The work is supported vertically against the downward thrust of the awl l8 and against the work piercing and loop drawing strokes of the needle I4 between the work supports l and 12 engaging withinthe stitchreceiving channel, and the presser foot 16 which engages the upper or lining as the case may be in the grooved edge portion of the shoe sole. Further in accordance with the usual construction, the machine is also provided with a shoe supporting horn 30 arranged to extend within the shoe and-bear against the inner surface of the sole at the sewing point, and an upper guard member 32 which is movable ina vertical plane into and out of engagement withv 2,332,599 I f-ILLI FT ,1

the shoe to correctly position the upper andlining in advance of the operation .of the presser foot" and stitch forming devices during the progress of "dotted lines in Fig. 1, in the ear 52, to receive the v clamping screws 54 and 56. The work'engaging the sewing operation about the margin of the shoe.

groove formed by the shoulder at the. edge of the sole in the line of feed immediately adjacent-to and on that side of the needl remote from the completed stitches of the seam. The presser foot is provided also'with a movable sector or plate 36, as best shown in Figs. 3, 4 and 6 of'the drawing, mounted to turn on a pivot 38 on the presser foot member l6, and provided with a downwardly extending nib 39 which is arranged to engage within the groove formed by the shoulder at the edge of the shoe sole in the line of feed immediately adjacent to and on that side of the needle toward the completed stitches of the seam. A small tension spring 40 connected at one end to the sector- The presser foot member l6 provided with-a downwardly extending nib 34 which fits into the provides a'support forthe work upon both" sides of and immediately adjacent the needle duringthe upward thrust of the needle through the work. When the presser foot is lifted and the'needle 'is moved to the left to feed the work, the sector-'36 I will yield against the pressure of its spring 40,

and is then permitted to move back into place before the presser foot has again returned to its work engaging position. I 7

The stitch forming and work feeding devices of the machine including specifically the needle, awl,

looper and presser foot, are constructed and ar rangedto have the usual timing of these parts, L

' and are actuated from driving connections which 7 connections form no part. of the present inven-j tion, only sufficient disclosure of the same has been made to indicate the of the same in the machine.

The present invention is concerned with the improvement of the devices for supporting and for guidinglthe shoe with relation to;the stitch forming devices; with reference particularly to the upper guard 32 with its supporting and actuating mechanism, and to an improved work support which will. adapt the machine for use upon. certain types of work in which extremely thin"material is employed, and in which'the stitch receiving channel of the insole is formed with a flap or ledge which extends outwardly substantially at rightangles to the surface of the so e.

general arrangement .upper engaging upper guard, has been modified toincrease eifc-ictiven'essv of this part, and toladaptthem As illustrated in the drawing, the upper guard I 32 of applicants improved construction'is formed on the lower'end of a slide m'emb er'44 -which is movable in a vertical plane ina guideway 46 to-, ward and away from the work engaging. position, 7 The guideway 46 is formed in twovertically disposed brackets or plates 41 and 48 having for wardly extending cars 50 and'52 secured by screws 54 and56 to a cover plate Won-the overarm sup-1r port 22. ..In applicants-improved-construction;

the brackets 41 and 48 are arranged-to jbefa'cl justed in a'forward and back direction in orderto permit adjustment of the upper guard 32 trans;

versely toward or away from the sewing point; v e To this ,end theeearsfifl and 52 are provided with-1. I

slottedportions such as that'designated at 60in portion of the upper guard'32comprises aflat plate which is sloped downwardly and rearward ly at an angle, thefacethereo'f providing a broad" surface, the 'lowfer edge'SZ oLthe upper guard 32 being arranged toblear 1a the upper at the front side Qitheprejsser and extending a substantial 'dista'r c'e infadvanceof the sewing'po'inti' 'I'herej is'also providedion f the leadingsideof the upper'guard 32, a-fla'nge'd V portion 64 which extends transversely "@{QSQfFlQ line of feed substantiallyfacross the shouldered edge of the sole andattachedupp'er; Theflanged;

portion 64 serves the particular purpose offcleaif-jif ing the loose portionsof the liningin advance or;

thesewing point to prevent possible injury to t lining from the operation of the stitchjorm devices. In previous' constructions exemplified V by t Qu n a pat n ov v eie r dia pp uard. w s; he d l nely 'ia'ex s contact with the work, and was movedto a determined raised positionaway froinjthjework" during each feeding operation of thefshoe. "t

In thefp'resent instance the upper guardf fis arrangedto be. moved to a predetermi'nedi'lo work engaging; position which isai'djustably;

termined in accordance with" the requirements q of the particular work being operated upon; v The upper guard is thus' adapted to forc'e the-lad J i e tv portions o jth u p r and vn gav from the sewing point without; atj'the same ti having any tendency to; break down the marginal contours of the sho ej'depended upon font proper placin of the stitching, ,or'to force hi e' utwa d at the'sewin ptmt;

p In accordancewith the present inventiont h j mechanismforoperating and for positioning he chine particularly for'operation upon vworklco sisting' of lightweight or iragile materi'als. W th the improved construction," the guard. 32 is moved yieldingly i a downwarddirectio'n to, 'a'

engaging position deter'r'ninedibyen'g'agem" tlloi v the upper guard with afstationary tstopfb machine. The position of this stopis adjuste by the operator ,in accordance with the flrqiure'g ments of the particularwork being operated upon: I I

With this arrangement, the upper guard while engaged with the work is nevertheless supported depended upon for the properl placinglofcthe", stitchorto force, the shoe outwardlyat the :se wa, a m i h in, eqeqrd nc Wiih..' he,,.

ventiom themecharlism provided for: raising the upper guard during the iworktfeed""isaarranged' to he readily adjustable byithe;operatorliniace cordance with, the: icharacter oiiltlie work being operated upon: tocause' the upper. guard :to be raised only the minimum histance required: to

avoid interference with thework feed, 'while'iat the same timepermitting theupper guard to perform its. function of iclearing loose portions of the-upper or upper and lining mm the; path of the stitchforming {devices whilet w 1' is beingded. In the" illustrated "c onstruction',- the upper guard 32 is moved" yieldingly toward" the work'by mean'sof a torsion'spring Et which' is supported at one end ona pin 68 andat its other end against the upperend of the shank portion 44 of the-upper guard'iiz. {I'helir'nit of downward movement "of the upper guard '32 toward the work'is determined bytheengagement of a lug re on the slide with: an: abutment-r2 one u:

shapedplate I i-secured to the rear sides of the bracketsdils" and 48, In orderitoi provide for adjustment 'ofthe limiting down position of "the upper' guard 32, the platesfl l-is Vertically adjustable, bein'gusecured inposition by means of clamp ing, screws. it which extend through vertically slotted portions oil-the, plate'lfl asjbestjshown in,

Upward movement or" the-upper guarditi is effected during that portion of "each" stitch forming= and'work feeding cycle of the machine ,dur-

ing which the work is fed, byyrneans .ofwan actu; atingrlevere-TB loosely supportedito turn on stationary pivotpin 90.: ,A small tension spring 82 secured at'oneendnto a pin Simon the hub mined positionstoward a ndrawayj from the work,

each of these positions beingindependently add-1 justable in ordertoyfit the operation of the upper guard to. the requirements of the particular work being operated upon'.:1;The forward and back adjustment of the upperguarcl 32 obtained by adjusting the position' of the-supporting brackets '41 and 48, permits theupper guard to be posi e tioned laterally toward or away from the path of movement of the needle in accordancewith the size of needle being employed and the character ofthe workheingoperatedupon; .It has "been found, for example, in operation-upon shoes having extremely thinsoles, that 'aniadjustment of the upper, guardp32 ,close-to the needle is desiriablegin order to permit the needlet'o strikeas deeply as possible into theshouldered edge of the sole; .l 1 r Another feature of the present invention consistsiin amodified and improved-arrangement of;

the work support which will" particularly adapt the, machine for operation. onrturn shoes coma posed otiextremely thin or fragile, material; In

this cla's of worlnas best shown in' Fig. 4 of the drawing; the stitch receiving channelin the sole takes the form of a ledge which extends sub stantially at right angles to the exposed surface of the sole." It is an. object of applicants improved :construction to provide support for the shoe as closely as possible at both sides of the awl during its downward thrust, and thus to prevent warping or displacement ofztthe betweensubstance under the thrust of the aw1. In pre vious constructions andiasshown in Fig. 3, a

of: thetlever p18; and at itsxotheryend' to a; pin

8t, tends to swing the actuating :lever '73 down! wardly. in a counterclockwise direction as shown inFig. 2,,to aylimitingposition determined by the engagement ofthe lever withzan adjustable stop. pin "88. Movementvot the actuating Clever l8 in'a reverse or clockwise direction to the posi:-.. tion-showninFig. 2,"causes the-cammed upper surface thereofcto engage against aloearing stir-1 faceformedhythe upper; end a slotnilfi throu h which: theactuating lever; 181-: extends to raisewthe upper guardtt outoi engagement with theworkg The actuating,leverlttis moved inaa clockwise; direction to raise the. upper guard 32 from the work by means of a nub. 92' formed, on a worhsupport has beenlemployed which comprises. the stationary support .1 EL and a movable s pport 12 whichmoves with the needle and serves also. to assistthe needle in the feeding of the Work. .Withsucha construction, the work support; l=2 will be spacedin a positionofl extreme displacement with :respect to the stationary support lfl'during the retracting or loop drawing: stroke'ofithe' needle, and while the awl is "moving downwardly through the: work. thewmodified; construction shownfinfhigs, .4 and 5, the usual'movable work support l2 has been replaced by a needle;.guide element we which X terminates ata pointt substantially'below the collaraf on the awl bar23. During the upward movement of. the awlrbar the nlule 9 engagesagainst the cammed fisurface formed inrthe; for:

ward edge of theactuating leve r It to move'the lever to its raised position; the lever then being up rt in is p si i n by:'-;..con inu d.movement oflthenuh 92'onto;.;a flattenedsuriace of the lever 18. "During subseauent down- Ward m em t f "t e wli ar ndgaw leie ctu ting ve llli isaea nflrel as d a p r bt t l e en l iinfiueret a. 82 to release the slide 44 andupper' guard 32 which, is ,force d downwardly under, the. pressure the upper guard moves between two prede'te1"- on the station'ary Work support IE2. tensio'n' spring |08 connected at one end. to 'a 'stationarypin H0 and at'its' other end toapin under side of the'worl i. A movable worksupportingflelernent I02 is provided formed on a plate-orsector we carried on a vertical pivot I96 A small H2 on the lever W4 tends normally to maintain the movable work supporting'elernent itsoperating position. Movem'ent of the-lever H14 under the influence of the-spring ltd-is limited by theengagement ofthe pin H2 with a fixed abutment on the" stationary work sup- 1 "Iheponstruction'and arrangement of the work support-icomprisingthe members Hl'and 62.15

such that the. needle during its'upward or work piercing movement, passes between the work supporting elements it] and 102, and also between the portions 34 and 39 of the presser foot it. As the needle is then shifted in the linecffeed, thernovable portion 39 of the presser footjand the move: able work supporting elementl02 are permitted to bemoved yieldingly outoi the path oithe needle. The needle during its \work. feeding movement passes out of engagement. with themovable work supporting member I92 which is'thus permitted to return under the influence of its spring H33 to H92 in v work engaging position prior to the movementof the awl l8 downwardly through thework. In this manner, a'firm support is provided for thework immediately adjacent both sides of the path taken without departing from the spirit andscope of the appended claims. i- 7 What is claimed is: 7

1. In a machine for sewing the upper t ithe sole of ajshoe of thegeneral type having stitch forming :devices which include a Work piercing awl and a straight needle movableto feed' the work, and devicesfor supporting th work in posi tion to'cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work, the combination with the needle and awl, of work supporting devices including a presser foot to bear againstthe upper at the edge of'the sole, an upper guard movable toward and away from the work and having work engaging surfaces constructed and arranged to and positioning means adapted for positivelylim' iting movement of the upper guard toward the work. N v 2; In a machine for sewingthe upper to the sole of a shoe of the general type having'stitch forming devices which include a work piercing awl and a straight needle movable to feed the work, and devicesafor supportingthei'work in position to cause the needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the work, the combination with the needle and awl, of worksupportingadea vices including a presser foot to'rbear. against the upper at'the edge of the sole, an upper guard movable between limiting positions'of engagement with and away from the work surface and having work engaging 'surfacesconstructed and arranged to position the upper with relation to the sole edge, means for moving the upper guard to said limited position away from the wo'rkzrsurface during the work feed, and positioning means independently adjustable for determining each of said positions. :v e v 3. In a machine for sewing the upper tothe sole of a shoe of the general type having stitch forming deviceswhich include a work piercing awl and a straight needle movable to feedVthe-work,

and devices for supporting'the work iniposition to position the upper with relation to the sole edge, and means for moving the upper guard to a 2332, 599 a k v the same side of the 'work ,.,the'- combinationfwith the rneedlefand awl,: of work supporting devicesv moving the upper guard towardithe work,'a.n adjustable adjusiebly determini thelimibe ,ingposition of-the uppeqgu the work.-

and means for movin th upper awaymmh I the work during the work feed having provision position the upper with relation to the sole edge,

predetermined position away from the work dur ing the work feed comprising an upper guard actuating lever, meansfor rocking the lever to raise the upper guard, and an eccentric piVot'for the lever angularly adjustable to determine the retracted position of the upper guard from the Work. 1

4. In a machine for sole of a shoe of the general type having stitch formingdevices which include a work piercing awl and. a straight needle movable to feed the work,.

sewing the upper to the in the soleysaid work support comprising a-fl red v portion engaging the 'shoe-inthelineoifeed at that side of the needle and awl-path remote'from the completed stitches time seam, a movable j portion in engagement iwith the' workin close] proximity to the other side-of the needle and awl :j path; and supportingmeansfor said movable per-1 tion arranged to'causesaid movable portiontoi be moved out of the path of movementot'said needle during the feeding 'rnovement thereon-{and thereafter to be re-pos'itioned to so pdrt'thework against the work piercingstrokeof'the awl. '1 I I g 7. A machine ifor sewing thenpper tothe, sole" of a shoe-havingiin combination a needle" anawl'disposed'at opposite sides of e the worki for adjustment to adjustably determine memjn iting vposition of "the upper guardawayjtromthef V work.

5,..aIn amachine for sewing the/upper to the sole of a turn shoe having a stitch receiving eh'ane nel formedinthe sole, the cornbination.ofistltch I forming and-work feeding:devicesdncluding'an awl having a work piercing' and retracting moves mellt, a needle movable to feed the work,dev1ce8 arranged to support'thework in position. to cause 7 the; needle to: emerge 1 from the; same side? orthe work, jcomprising a work support for engagement 7 with the stitch receivingchannel, a'presser foot; to bear against the upper at the edge 101 the sole,f{

, means for lifting the presser foot to release f work during work feed, an upper guard movable between limiting positions-toward andaway from an .awl disposed at oppositefsides-of thefl work,

means for actuating the needle to :feed' thework,

devices cooperating with-the needle to' form tho stitch, devices arranged t0 support the work in- 0 position to cause the needle to enter and emer e,

fromthe same side of the work comprising a presser-foot arranged to bear againstthe uppe at the edge of the sole,and 'a work' support? engage against a stitch'receiving channel for'md meansfor actuating the needle to feedtheworlfl path remote from the completed stitches of the seam, a movable portion for engagement with the work in close proximity to the other side of the needle and and path, and supporting means for said movable portion including a yieldable holding element arranged to permit movement of said movable portion out of the path of movement of said needle during the feeding movement thereof.

8. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a needle and an awl disposed at opposite sides of the work, devices arranged to support the work in position to cause the needle to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole and to emerge from the upper at the same side of the work comprising a Work support to engage in the stitch receiving chan.

nel, and a presser foot arranged to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, and means for actuating the needle while through the work to feed the work, said work support having a fixed portion at one side of the needle path, and a portion at the other side of the needle path supported to swing on a vertical pivot for movement out of the path of the needle during the feeding movement thereof, and means for holding said movable portion yieldingly in its work supporting position.

9. A machine for sewing the upper to the sole of a shoe having, in combination, stitch forming and Work feeding devices including a needle, devices arranged to support the Work in position to cause the needle to enter a stitch receiving channel in the sole and to emerge from the upper at the same side of the work, comprising a work support to engage inthe stitch receiving channel, and a presser foot arranged to bear against the upper at the edge of the sole, and means for actuating the needle while through the work to feed the work, said work support having a fixed portion at one side of the needle path, and a portion at the other side of the needle path supported to turn on a vertical pivot to be moved 

